Cool-Season
Grasses Lawn Care and Maintenance Calendar
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Lawns may be maintained at different levels of quality according
to individual preference, but good lawns seldom “just
happen.” This summary outlines major steps required
to maintain a year-round high quality lawn. The practices
refer primarily to cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass,
perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue. For bermudagrass
and zoysiagrass lawns, see MU
publication G6706, "Establishment and Care of Zoysiagrass
Lawns." Timing is approximate for Southwest Missouri;
it may vary two weeks or more depending on weather conditions.
March
Organic practices
- As ground temperatures near 50 degrees F, (March or April)
apply Corn Gluten (60% protein) for early pre-emergent control
or if weeds are not a consideration, this would be an appropriate
time to apply a general organic fertilizer.
Non-organic practices
- As needed, start mowing at recommended heights (see Table
1).
- Use broadleaf herbicides for perennial and winter annual
weeds not controlled in the fall.
- Overseed thin spots early if missed last fall. (Do not
overseed with perennial or annual ryegrass.) Do not use
herbicides in overseeded areas until grass is fully established.
- Watch for moles; traps are the only effective means of
control.
April/May
Organic practices
- Second application of Corn Gluten 45 - 60 days following
the first application. This is the most
important application to prevent weed seed germination.
- Best time for Beneficial Nematode application to
control grubs at larval stage. Apply during rainy, cool
weather.
- Control broadleaf weeds by hand pulling or spot treatment
with Horticultural Vinegar.
Non-organic practices
- Aerate if thatch is 1 inch deep or soil is compacted.
- Use crabgrass preventers (preemergence herbicides) by
April 1st. Start top-dressing low spots as grass grows.
- In May, fertilize if needed when spring growth begins
to slow. Use a slow-release form of nitrogen, such as polymer-
or sulfur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde, or a natural organic
to improve lawn quality without promoting excessive leaf
growth.
- Apply postemergence broadleaf herbicides for control
of summer annual weeds. If needed, start postemergence control
of crabgrass, goosegrass, or nutsedge near the end of May.
See Home
Lawn Weed Control (MU G6750).
- Watch for first brood of sod webworm. Apply insecticides
about 10 days after major moth flight if damage to turf
is seen, generally in May.
June/July
Start watering as needed. Water infrequently to a soil depth
of 6 inches. Overwatering can be harmful, but water frequently
enough to prevent drought stress. Kentucky bluegrass under
stress is susceptible to disease. Don’t start watering
if you cannot continue full season. Rapidly growing lawns
need frequent mowing. Let clippings remain unless they are
excessive.
Organic practices
- Apply all-purpose organic fertilizer to slowly feed plants
through summer.
Non-organic practices
Continue frequent mowing as needed and irrigate only enough
to prevent turf wilting. When irrigation is needed and conditions
are hot and humid, water between 6:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m.
to reduce disease occurrences.
- Search for white grubs in brown areas. Dead turf in those
areas can easily be peeled from the surface. If 5 to 10
grubs appear in 1 square foot, treat with an appropriate
insecticide near the end of July. Thoroughly irrigate to
move the insecticide into the zone where grubs are active.
- Apply second application of preemergent herbicide for
crab grass control in June.
August/September
Organic practices
- If lawn renovation is necessary, begin preparation. Remove
weeds by mechanical control, cover with plastic, or spray
with Horticultural Vinegar.
- Early to mid September, seed with high quality blend
when adequate rains or irrigation are available.
- Apply Corn Gluten mid September to stimulate fall growth.
If seeding, delay application until second mowing of new
grass. This is the most important time to build soil fertility
through use of organic fertilizer.
Non-organic practices
- Fall seeding and sodding is best; prepare seedbed now.
Continue watering and insect control, if necessary. Make
plans for fall lawn renovation. Select and purchase grass
seed and fertilizer. If lawns are to be totally renovated,
kill all vegetation with a glyphosate (Roundup®) application
near midmonth.
- Have soil test performed if you are unsure of basic fertility
level.
- Thoroughly water dormant lawns in last week of August
to start fall growth.
- Apply selective broadleaf herbicide no later than one
month prior to new seeding. If needed, broad leaf herbicide
may be applied to newly established lawns after the second
mowing.
- September is an important time to fertilize. Apply 1-1.5
pounds nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
- Plant or seed new lawns in early September through mid-October;
keep well watered.
- Core aeration prior to over seeding prepares the seed
bed and relieves compaction.
- Rake; dethatch; kill weed patches; overseed thin spots.
Resume top-dressing, if needed.
October/November
Non-organic practices
- This is the best time to apply broadleaf herbicides,
especially for chickweed control.
- Mow at regular heights until growth stops; mulch tree
leaves into turf unless quantity prohibits. Keep leaves
from packing and smothering grass.
- Apply lime if soil test indicates need.
- Fertilize moderately by applying 1 pound of nitrogen
per 1,000 square feet after cool days slow leaf growth.
Nutrients at this time will encourage root growth and thickening
of turf. Soluble nitrogen fertilizers (containing urea,
ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate) are used more efficiently
by turf in late fall.
- Irrigate, if necessary, so that turf goes into winter
with moist — not wet — soil.
- Recondition lawn mower; store with clean oil. Use soluble
fertilizer or calcium chloride instead of salt for melting
winter ice.
November/December
Organic practices
- Application of organic fertilizer as winterizer.
Reference Information
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